Spats, an overview

So, what are spats?  According to Wikipedia, they are “a type of classic footwear accessory for outdoor wear, covering the instep and the ankle” made of “white cloth or brown felt” (Spats).  The word is actually a shortening of spatterdash, which has existed since the late 1600s (Fleming).  It seems as the word shortened through the centuries, so did the length of the spat.  Eventually, the term gaiters came to refer to the long spats, the term having originated in the 1770s.  Fleming also states they were made of “leather, canvas, or other heavy material” as well as “wool felt for warmth”

My purposes for a spat project are actually twofold.  First, it is part of Victorian era re-enactment and of Steampunk couture.  Therefore, I need them for these activities.  Second, my pants cuffs get frayed.  At first I thought the pants were too long and I was walking on them.  However, it is the front of the cuff that is getting damaged.  I believe the metal on my shoes is ripping the material.  Therefore, I want some spats to wear with my everyday clothes.  Eventually I would like them to be leather to protect from cleaning chemicals, but I will start with some simple wool felt or denim.

There are several websites with tutorials on how to make spats.  I like the one at wikiHow (which is apparently a step-by-step instruction based on a ThreadBanger YouTube video created by Zoe Rothberg) and plan on using that one for my initial spats, as the buckle is optional and my work shoes have flat soles without heels.

As always, I welcome your comments.  Click on the Comment link below; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

References:

Fleming, R. S. “Spatterdashes, Gaiters, Spats; for protection, warmth, & disguise.&rdquo Kate Tattersall Adventures. Kate Tattersall, 14 Nov. 2012. Web. 7 Dec. 2013.

Rothberg, Zoh. “How to Make Spats (with Pictures).” wikiHow. wikiHow, n.d. Web. 7 Dec. 2013.

“Spats (footwear).” Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, Inc, 25 Nov. 2013. Web. 7 Dec. 2013.

Cravat research #6

On the Brass Goggles discussion forum, there is a 3-page thread discussing “Victorian Cravat”.  There is one entry which quotes a source, Cunnington, as providing the following dimensions for the 1890s:  50" long; the neck portion 7/8" wide; each end 15" long and 3" wide, closed square ends.  It includes other historic descriptions, such as the end of the wrap-around style by the 1870s.  I'm going to have to find out who this Cunnington is.

Cunnington is apparently Cecil Willett Cunnington and Phillis Emily Cunnington.  They are listed as co-authors of "Handbook of English Costume in the Nineteenth Century" published in 1971.  It is a 617 page book with an ISBN of 0823800806 that sells on Amazon for around $26 used to over $200 new.  The local library does not have a copy of this book, and I am not currently desirous of owning it, although it should be placed on my Amazon wish list.

As always, I welcome your comments.  Click on the Comment link below; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Cravat research #5

A last note on cravats.  According to the research I have done to this point, there is no such thing as a pointy-end cravat during the Victorian era.  The appearance of a pointy end indicates the neckcloth is actually a scarf or neckerchief.  Pointy ends seem to have come later in tie history.

As evidence I present: "In Year 1924 the modern necktie got its present appearance because Jesse Langsdorf in New York patented the method by which the vast majority of ties are manufactured still today."--Tieroom.  "[He] developed the idea of cutting the fabric of the tie on the bias and sewing it in three segments. He also added the 'slip-stitch,' which provided elasticity and allowed the tie to return to its former shape after wear."--Ben Silver Corporation

From this, I infer (possibly incorrectly) that the pointy end of did not come into existence until the 1920s, to coincide with the use of the bias, or angled, cutting of the fabric.

As always, I welcome your comments.  Click on the Comment link below; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Cravat research #4

"During second half of the 19th century four distinct styles of necktie evolved.  They were given a great many different names, which can be confusing.  The main categories were: (i) bow tie; (ii) scarf or neckerchief; (iii) Ascot; and (iv) four-in-hand, or sailor's knot, generally referred to as the 'long tie'."--Victorian & Albert Museum

Now we're getting somewhere.  All I have to do is define each category.  Scarf should be easy: A single unsewn piece of cloth in either rectangle or triangle shape.  Long tie would be one that looks thin and long, much like the ties of today.  In fact, the picture for the above link looks like it is a long tie.  The ascot would be the same thing but with wider material, kind of like the modern wedding ascots.  Finally, there is the bow tie.  Any piece of material that is long enough can be made into a bow tie, whether it is the western ribbon bow or a bowed ascot.  Now about some pictures:

	(i) Bow Tie (one of my favorite bow tie pictures) Image stolen from the Royal Steamline website, though the original image was from an Etsy shop that seems to no longer exist, called Gentleman's Jabot.
	(ii) Scarf or neckerchief Image stolen from the Victorian Tailor blog.
	(iii) Ascot Image stolen from the Elegant Ascot Cravats and Neckwear eBay shop.
	(iv) Four-in-hand or long tie Image stolen from the Victoria & Albert Museum website.

Where does this all lead?  Both the scarf and the Ascot can be tied into a bow, so using one of those patterns can result in the looks I am looking for.  The long tie is more modern than I want, so I can avoid that style.  The Ascot can also be tied into the ruche knot, also known as a scrunchie knot.  Therefore, if I can find the correct Ascot pattern, I should be covered on all the outfits I am planning.

As always, I welcome your comments.  Click on the Comment link below; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Cravat research #3

One of the things I am trying to re-create is the Bilbo character from Spielberg's "Lincoln".  Here is a picture of the tie from the movie.

Based on this picture, the tie is a single layer of material with some sort of an end, possibly fringed.  Well, while researching cravats, I came across this image from the Victoria & Albert Museum site.

They describe it as a woven "black silk satin ascot figured with blue design."  Is it possible this is the same type of cravat being worn by Bilbo?

As always, I welcome your comments.  Click on the Comment link below; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Cravat research #2

On the Victoria & Albert Museum site, they list a cravat in their collection made of lawn.  Having never heard of lawn fabric before, I googled it.

"Lawn cloth or lawn is a plain weave textile, originally of linen but now chiefly cotton. Lawn is designed using fine, high count yarns, which results in a silky, untextured feel. The fabric is made using either combed or carded yarns. When lawn is made using combed yarns, with a soft feel and slight luster, it is known as 'nainsook'."--Wikipedia

If I can find a source, this sounds like something I would actually like wearing.

As always, I welcome your comments.  Click on the Comment link below; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Cravat research #1

"Ties came in a variety of colours and styles and were still known as cravats.  Some were tied by hand while others were ready-made into knots.  Ready-mades had a cardboard stiffener to keep the knot in place.  They were fastened around the neck with a buckle, catch or piece of elastic."--Victorian & Albert Museum

I did not know that Victorians had this sort of "clip-on" tie, even if it was a buckle.

As always, I welcome your comments.  Click on the Comment link below; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.